The Best Ways To Make Perfect Board and Batten Siding For Your Century Home

Board and Batten Siding – If you have an older home, you need to remember to utilize the old and classic structure approaches, both to keep the historical character of the structure and due to the fact that the structure was designed to operate in a specific method.

We are going to have our home repainted, but before we do that we need to repair the siding a little. These are some notes I made about how to do that, because it turns out that most regional builders put the siding on incorrectly, in a manner that makes it not last long.

Disclaimer: I am not a builder, and I do not claim that these notes are “right”– I provide here in case they assist other people.

Board and Batten Siding Ideas
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Our unique home has wooden board and batten siding. If you have this on your home you should inspect it at least once a year to search for damage and fix it. Before painting, however, and in any case every few years, it’s a good idea to do a more comprehensive evaluation and to replace any split or decaying battens. Prior to painting you ought to likewise seal any boards that are leaking pitch, e.g. with “Binz” sealant.

The siding we have is made of vertical boards that are some 10 inches broad (they vary) and perhaps a little over inch thick.

Do not attempt to conserve money by using thinner wood: you need this wood to last, and you likewise want the protection and insulation! The boards are nailed into place and after that held strongly down with thin vertical strips of wood called battens.

What Is Board And Batten Siding?

Board and Batten Siding For Home Exterior
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As modern-day rustic style continues to acquire steam across the United States, so too does board and batten siding. What started on the West Coast is now a mainstay across the country.

Basically, board and batten siding is a series of alternating vertical or horizontal boards. The larger boards are usually around 10″ broad, while the smaller sized boards, or battens, are closer to 2 inches broad. Unlike other siding designs, board and batten enables natural growth and contraction, which you need to represent when referring to any exterior material.

Furthermore, while not typical, some house owners choose batten and board siding. Basically, this style puts the larger boards in front of the thinner battens, the opposite of the dominant style mentioned before.

How Much Board And Batten Siding Installation Cost?

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When people imagine their dream home, they often think of board and batten siding. This type of siding provides a rustic want to conventional, country homes that represents the quality construction of the past and the products that age gracefully amidst nature. Nevertheless, that quality comes with a cost.

Board And Batten Siding Cost

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Board and batten exterior siding costs vary from $2.05 to $2.38 per board or $4/sf to $6/sf. Nevertheless, your board and batten siding cost will mostly depend on your style, material and whether or not you employ a siding specialist.

Board And Batten Expense Aspects

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Generally believed to be fairly economical compared with other siding alternatives, the cost of siding utilizing boards and battens vary inning accordance with style, kind of materials and professional labor.

For example, some house owners choose to inject their own personal design into their siding by selecting boards or battens that are larger or narrower than conventional board and batten siding. The most economical way of attaining a special look is by adjusting the size of the battens, which are generally 2 inches wide.

Besides design, the product impacts the cost of any board and batten siding job. For instance, property owners on a spending plan ought to choose plywood, pine or fir boards as an economical option. Those who can afford more ought to think about cedar or redwood.

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Besides the boards, other product costs consist of the battens, nails, weatherproofing products, mounting blocks, soffits and fascia. The cost of the battens depends upon the quality of the wood picked, however normally varies in between $0.83/ sf and $3/sf. The remainder of the products noted are secondary products that cost about $1.50/ sf.

The final element that impacts the expense of a siding task is expert setup. Unless you Do It Yourself, which is uncommon for siding projects, you’ll need to pay a siding contractor to install your board and batten siding.

To ensure you get the best possible rate, gather at least 3 quotes. Make certain their bids cover the same work then, research evaluations and past work. Lastly, beware of the most affordable bid. Low labor costs typically mean a lower quality of work.

Board And Batten Siding Advantages

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Board and batten siding provides a lot of advantages couple of other siding alternatives deal. This growing siding design offers an unique and attractive design to any country cottage, barn, guesthouse or other rustic residence. Once you decide on board and batten or batten board siding, you have a myriad of choices for products, including genuine wood, crafted wood and vinyl.

Real wood is a flexible material option for board and batten siding because specialists can cut it however you ‘d like. You can install the boards vertically or horizontally, depending on your personal taste. If the siding is prepared and set up correctly, this stunning siding alternative need to last for several years.

Ease of upkeep is another plus for homeowners thinking about using real wood for board and batten siding. When boards or battens deteriorate or go missing out on for whatever factor, changing those boards is relatively easy once you have specific measurements.

The primary advantage of vinyl board and batten siding is its immunity to rot and insects. Extra colors are likewise readily offered for contemporary home styles. These vinyl-molded designs can match the detail of handmade wood after improvements in building innovation.

Board And Batten Siding Disadvantages

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Of course, there are a few disadvantages to a board and batten exterior. Some obstacles associated with utilizing real wood for board and batten siding focus on rot and bugs.

Many unattended wood eventually rots when neglected in the weather unless they’re still rooted to the ground as trees.

A lot of exterior structures using wood, however, should be treated to last more than Ten Years. Likewise, the structures need to be initially and periodically dealt with for bugs such as termites.

The main disadvantages of using vinyl for board and batten siding are that it’s not as long lasting as genuine wood and its unfavorable impacts on the environment.

Vinyl is vulnerable to splitting due to its regular direct exposure to the sun. The broken vinyl can end up in landfills. Environmentally-conscious contractors generally go to landfills to reuse recycled vinyl, a preferred material for different home redesigning tasks.

Batten Board Siding Products

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As we have actually discussed already, wood, vinyl and engineered wood are the three main products utilized for board and batten or batten board siding. Wood, naturally, is the primary choice, which make sense provided its rustic nature. However, vinyl and engineered wood are less expensive alternatives.

Wood siding, structures and architectural functions use reasonably well without preliminary treatment and regular upkeep. A few of the most common types of wood used for board and batten siding are pine, plywood, fir, cedar, redwood and white oak. Besides appearance, many property owners pick their wood based on its price, toughness and upkeep.

Unfortunately, the wood is not the only siding component that needs protecting from the aspects. The nails and fasteners must also withstand deterioration and be rust evidence.

To prevent a degraded quality in addition to unattractive staining, installers must choose nails and fasteners that are able to endure extreme climate condition.

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Numerous reliable installers use nails made from stainless-steel, high tensile strength aluminum or hot-dipped galvanized metal. Your siding specialist ought to understand which nails might negatively react to certain wood items.

The vinyl utilized for board and batten siding projects are specially formed to look like popular wood grains, including cedar. The crafted wood boards used for board and batten siding projects are made from wood chips and commercial adhesives that are developed utilizing intensive heat.

Siding pros in fact choose vinyl or crafted wood due to the fact that they are both light-weight, easy to install and really budget-friendly. In fact, crafted wood board and batten siding slabs typically concern the task site prefinished and weather dealt with. As such, they’re usually ensured to last for at least 25 years.

How to Build the Siding

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Let’s go through this one action at a time. These actions are really rough notes; do some research study and ask someone local before counting on them! We are not home builders.

First, I’ll presume you’ve prepared your wall, which, in North America, is most likely chipboard or plywood, although in an older home (a minimum of in Ontario) it might be brick.

Next, attach horizontal strips of seasoned wood to the wall. You can utilize nails or screws, but these strips will be taking most of the weight of the siding, so use good wood and secure them on well.

You might want to prime them, or to paint them with preservative, before fastening them in place. Cedar is an excellent wood to use, but if it’s too costly you can use something cheaper. Wood prices seem to differ excessive by area to state more on this.

These strips are sometimes called furring strips instead of studs, due to the fact that they are horizontal. Secure them two feet apart from each other, or somewhat closer.

An optional (but clearly reasonable) next step is to put insulation between the furring strips, and then to put a barrier, such as Tyvek or vapour barrier over both the furring strips and the insulation.

I have actually disappointed this action here, due to the fact that it makes the diagrams too tough to follow. This is more than likely to be required (I imagine) if your home doesn’t already have insulation in the inner wall.

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After the furring strips are in place, together with any insulation, you can do the boards. You may also want to consider any electrical work you need to have actually done, since when the boards are in place you will not have the ability to run cable televisions around really quickly.

For outdoors lights, however, it’s probably best to have the wires come through the spaces between the boards, as you’ll see later.

The boards are solid wood, and you ought to paint them on all sides (consisting of the ends) with preservative if you’re going to be using stain, or with guide if you’re going to paint your home. When the boards are completely dry you can nail them to the furring strips, as displayed in Figure Three.

You need to leave a gap of half an inch in between the boards. Don’t panic, the spaces will be concealed by the battens!

If you are replacing old boards, however, keep in mind that the boards may not all have actually been the same width! Note likewise that lumber is getting narrower, so if you order ten inch wide boards, where they were at one time ten inches, then 9 and 3 quarters, today they are most likely just nine inches wide, or nine and a quarter, and cost more too! You also have to “accustom” your wood, as explained later on.

The spaces in between the boards permit your house to flex a little (which it will!) and also enable the wood to warp and diminish or swell with the altering seasons (which it will!).

After the boards are in location you can secure battens over the spaces. The battens need to be made from experienced wood, and it’s advised that you leave the wood outside with a tarpaulin loosely weighted down over it, or in a covered location close by, to assist the wood to get acclimatised prior to you secure it on.

You need to do the very same with boards, by the way, but with the boards you need to raise each board up from the one below it, when you stack them, so the air can get all round them, for at least a week prior to painting or staining them.

If you are going to paint, put primer on the battens prior to nailing them into place. Don’t forget completions! You must get the primer (or stain) tinted to match the paint colour you have selected.

You need to utilize siding nails to put the battens in place, and you will need three-and-a-half-inch ones if you can get them. The nails need to go an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half into the furring strips (or into whatever they go into), which means you will need longer nails for the battens, to allow for the density of the boards.

Avoid electroplated nails; galvanized ones are great. Otherwise they will rust gradually, and the rust spots will be extremely noticeable on your house.

The proper siding nails have little rings into them all the way down, and ringed solid stainless steel nails are likewise great, but if you cannot get those, twisty galvanized nails will probably be enough.

The battens are not nailed to the boards. Rather, the nails go through the gaps in between the boards and into the furring strips. This lets the boards bend, and it also lowers the opportunity that the nails will split the wood either of the boards or of the battens.

On our house the majority of the battens were nailed at the edges, so a lot of them have divided. In addition, in parts of the house, there are no noticeable furring strips, so our only genuine options were to take everything off and start again, to nail the battens into the chipboard wall, or to nail the battens by the edge, and we have actually needed to do a mix.

If your battens are 3 inches large they are most likely wide adequate to conceal the nails you utilized for the boards, if you like; if not, however, the nails will make a horizontal line that will look just great, and in any case if you are painting it won’t be really obvious.

You are supposed to put the nails in the centre of the boards, however, to decrease the chance of the wood splitting. If your boards are more than six inches large (as they need to be) you ought to utilize two vertical rows of nails three inches apart, equally spaced out from the middle of the board.

Helpful Idea: Bang nails all the way through the battens prior to you put them up. The ends of the nails ought to stand out by about quarter of an inch. When you go to line up the batten, the extending ends of the nails will go into the slot between the boards and assist you get the batten in the ideal place.

After you have actually put the battens in place you may wish to caulk along the edges if there are any fractures, due to the fact that otherwise the rain will get in, and also the wind will draw out all your heat in the winter. You need to use a caulk that you can paint over and that will stretch. Ideal caulking can be found in the house Hardware (at least in Ontario).

Useful pointer: The fastest method to put caulking in place is to make a long strip of it along the fracture using the caulking gun, then take a damp fabric or a latex glove and smooth it down into location.

As soon as you have a great leak-proof surface it’s time to paint!

5 Bottom Line for Putting Up Board and Batten Vertical Vinyl Siding

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While setting up vertical board and batten siding has many similar actions to its horizontal cousin, there are 5 key actions to bear in mind when applying this exterior cladding product to your house’s exterior.

1. Install Furring Strips

If required, install horizontal furring strips every 12″ or a strong nail-able sheathing prior to the siding. This action will help to level the surface and provide sufficient material for 3/4″ fastener penetration.

2. Develop Your Base Line

To establish the vertical starting base, utilize a chalk line and a level to obtain a horizontal brown board and batten vinyl sidingstarting point so that all installed siding will be completely level. Install your corner posts even with or slightly listed below that chalk line.

Your J-Channel needs to extend into corner post and constantly remember to enable a 1/4″ for growth.

Essential: Make sure to drill drain holes every 12″ in bottom edge of J-Channel to permit any moisture to leave from behind the siding.

3. J-Channel your Windows, Doors and Eaves

Always set up J-Channel around doors and windows and along the eaves before you start applying siding.

The J-Channel at the top of the opening ought to extend over side of J-Channel by 1/4″.

To allow for required water runoff, cut and flex this leading part down over this side of J-Channel.

4. Always Nail at the Top

With all vertical devices and panels, place the first nail at the upper edge of the nailing slot near the top of the panel leaving a minimum of 1/4″ gap at the top and bottom of the panel. This action allows the panel to hang on its own in the correct position to preserve the space at both ends of the panel for expansion and contraction while you continue to attach the remainder of the panel to the wall.

After the first nail, position the staying nails in the center of the nailing slots and check each panel and corner post to ensure it has upward motion after it has actually been secured.

5. Start with the Corners

For ease of application, vertical setups must begin at a corner.

Fill the channel of the corner by pin down a strip of board 2″ wide. Push a strip of finish trim into the channel of the corner over the board and nail.

Cut off the locking leg of the very first panel, and SnapLock Punch the edge at 12″ periods. sandcastle board and batten vinyl sidingMake sure the ‘ears’ face outside from the wall.

Push the punched edge of the panel into the strip of surface trim, interlock and then nail subsequent panels. Procedure and cut to size the last panel, punch the edge and insert into the surface trim in the corner.

Keep in mind: Prior to installing any siding, determine the width of the wall to guarantee that the last panel will suit finish trim in the corner.

In all installations, care ought to always be taken to correctly prepare your home’s exterior structure and it is constantly advised that installers abide by all security standards and review regional building regulations before beginning a job of this nature.